Tradition and modernity collide in spectacular fashion at Osteria Francescana with chef-patron Massimo Bottura’s sense of fun and headline-grabbing cooking. A new dish for this year is ‘camouflage’ – a thin layer of foie gras decorated with powders (hare blood, chestnut, various herbs), arranged to look like army woodland camo – but this is tempered by more traditional fare. Brilliant yet eccentric, Bottura’s artistic, show-stopping food has secured him a fervent following.